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Daggerboard buffer wear

I replaced mine with standard gasket fluff (purchased from a dinghy supplier) and looks identical to original. The gasket fluff has adhesive already on it. Just peel the backing off and apply. I found a heat gun (hair dryer) for a while helped soften the adhesive and it was easier to peal out. A lot of adhesive was still left on the boat which I removed with acetone and rags (long process). It black plug at the bottom of your picture is a slotted rod. I chose to tap it down about an inch so I coud fit in the new gasket and the extrat material could extend into that space. Trim with exacto knife/flip boat repeat process. To move the slotted rod I used a slightly smaller piece of wood and tapped gently. There may be better ways to do this also. I foudn a screwdriver useful to force the gasket into the tight bend at the leading edge. I removed a small amount of backing to keep it in place then slowly peeled back the backing paper and used the screwdriver (the round smooth body of it) to push the gasket against the boat and get the contact adhesive activiated.

05/05/2025 01:36:00
Chris
Posts: 7

I've read through the thread about the slot buffer dropping but I have three questions.

what shape should the buffer be - mine seems to have worn sharp and I think it's catching the board making it hARD to lift. See attached photo. I'm the only Aero at my club so cannot compare to other boats.
the previous thread stated that RS used Sabatack to glue the buffer in. There are various grades, which one would I use?
how could I soften the glue to make removing the old buffer easier, if this is what is required?

02/05/2025 15:36:00
Reisn
Posts: 1

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